Backpacker Befriends Bukhara, Part 1

This entry is part 5 of 5 in the series Backpacking in Central Asia

“The more I traveled the more I realized that fear makes strangers of people who should be friends.” Shirley MacLaine. My cell phone alarm rattled me awake just after dawn, interrupting dreams of Bukhara’s Silk Road glory. Yesterday I caught a glimpse of that past in the city’s mosques, madrassas, and minarets. Today I wanted to get Read More …

Spectres & Spectacles in Holy Bukhara

This entry is part 4 of 5 in the series Backpacking in Central Asia

The ghosts of history sometimes speak to us in spectacles and marvels, sometimes stay frustratingly silent, and the art of travel often lies more in the imagination than the destination itself. “Bukhara! For centuries it had glimmered remote in the Western consciousness: the most secretive and fanatical of the great caravan-cities, shored up in its desert fastness Read More …