Istanbul Story: Coworkers & Conquerors

Vicky and I didn’t always see eye to eye. But as we piled into a passenger van from Ataturk Airport, we were swept up in giddy excitement, enchanted by swirling Turkish pop melodies blasting from the radio. This was Istanbul—where East meets West. Here my coworker and I—like the Christians and Muslims, conquerors and traders that have passed through Istanbul itself Read More …

Chasing Ginsberg’s Ghost in Lima

An almost imperceptible shift of sound in the streets below stirred me from sleep in the unfamiliar San Isidro apartment. I squinted through a crack in the blinds, where yellowish lanterns like fireflies pierced encroaching mist under a dense, black sky. I smiled, then drifted back to sleep. When I woke again the fireflies were Read More …

Spectres & Spectacles in Holy Bukhara

This entry is part 4 of 5 in the series Backpacking in Central Asia

The ghosts of history sometimes speak to us in spectacles and marvels, sometimes stay frustratingly silent, and the art of travel often lies more in the imagination than the destination itself. “Bukhara! For centuries it had glimmered remote in the Western consciousness: the most secretive and fanatical of the great caravan-cities, shored up in its desert fastness Read More …